Kawaramachi, one of the last remaining castle town districts in Gifu City is located alongside the Nagara River (Nagaragawa).

When you visit in summer you can become witness to an unforgettable spectacle on the water: Cormorant fishing. Using cormorant birds to fish for Ayu – sweetfish has a more than 1,300 year long history, and is an essential part of the local culture.

My trip to Kawaramachi was unfortunately outside the fishing season, but I still had an unforgettable time in this old town district.

The beautiful wooden townhouses along a wide street are nice photo opportunity and the insides of the houses reveal the rich history and amazing craftsmanship of the area.

Kawaramachi used to be one of the main river ports utilized for the transport of materials such as bamboo, Washi paper, oils, and persimmon juice. With these materials, items such as paper lanterns, handheld fans, and Japanese umbrellas can be produced.

Even today these items are produced using the same old techniques and materials. I talked to Sumii-san of Sumii Tomijiro Shoten whose family has been producing fans in Kawaramachi for four generations.

He explained to me how he produced fans in batches of between 200 and 500 pieces. Each fan is made from a single piece of bamboo. 4 sheets of washi paper are glued to the bamboo frame and decorated with different designs.

Most of the fans are depicting traditional scenes surrounding cormorant fishing, but also natural imagery such as flowers and nature.

The finished fans are sold only locally. If you are still looking for a unique souvenir to take home with you, consider a handmade fan from Kawaramachi.

Just a couple of doors down, I found the shop of one of the three last remaining Japanese umbrella makers in Gifu. These umbrellas are all produced by hand using Japanese materials such as bamboo, wood, and Washi paper, and a mixture of oils to make the waterproof umbrellas.

Japanese umbrellas were commonly used in Japan to protect from rain as well as sunshine until after the Second World War when western products became more common. Nowadays they have been almost completely replaced. Japanese umbrellas are now only used in Shinto rituals, at tea ceremonies, and weddings.

I had lunch at Kawaramachiya, a cute café located inside one of the old buildings in Kawaramachi. The front of the narrow house is reserved for souvenirs; the back is a two-story café with comfortable seats to relax in.

Their lunch options include Omrice (Japanese style omelets on rice), three kinds of curry, and Okayu (Japanese porridge). A selection of cakes, Japanese sweets, and drinks are also available.

If you are looking for a snack, head to Ryokusuian. They offer matcha (green tea) and vanilla soft serve ice cream, Dango, and other Japanese sweets.

The best souvenir to bring back home is Kawaramachi’s own sweet, the Ayugashi. A fish-shaped sponge cake filled with Mochi rice cake.

You can find Ayugashi at multiple stores around town, including at Ryokusuian where they sell a variety of flavors such as chocolate, matcha, and strawberry.

I decided to get mine at Tamaiya Honpo. A Japanese confectionary shop located in Kawaramachi with a more than 100 year-long history.

The Ayugashi here has a gentle sweetness, fluffy pancake-like outside, and very creamy Mochi filling.

If you are looking for a wide variety of souvenirs, head to Meisankan. They have the biggest selection of souvenirs in Kawaramachi. While you can get Ayugashi, and other cormorant fishing inspired sweets, they also offer real vacuum-packed sweetfish prepared in a variety of ways.

My stroll around Nagaragawa was a lot of fun, and I will definitely be back next time in the summer for some cormorant fishing on the Nagaragawa.