Tasty Local Specialties of Toyama
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Japan's Toyama Prefecture is located on the Japan Sea coast north of Nagoya, and offers a range of distinctive locally loved specialties for visitors to enjoy.
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I got there by train via Kanazawa, arriving a little before noon and hungry for lunch! It wasn't long before I found the first example of local fare: a noodle shop just across the street from the station offering a special kind of ramen noodles known as "Toyama black."
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This ramen gets its name from the dark color of its broth. Originally prepared for fisherman and other laborers, the soup is generally fish-based but also contains a large amount of soy sauce, making it very strongly flavored.
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Wow!
Because the taste is so strong, many places that serve Toyama black ramen also offer what's called "soup wari" – broth that's milder in flavor that you can add to lessen the intensity. Just ask the restaurant staff.
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The shop I visited also had a little bottle of vinegar at every seat that I was told was for the same purpose of altering the flavor for diners daunted by the original intensity.
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And if you do manage to drink all the soup, you might even find some words of wisdom on the bottom of your ramen bowl!
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"When love acts, it makes the impossible possible."
Thanks to its proximity to the Sea of Japan, Toyama also offers a rich variety of wonderfully fresh and tasty seafood. One item that the region is especially famed for is hotaru ika, or firefly squid – a small-sized squid that happens to be bioluminescent: it can create flashes of light that it uses to attract the small fish it feeds on.
Another marine specialty of the region is shiro-ebi – Japanese glass shrimp. Nicknamed "the jewels of Toyama Bay," these small shrimp are a lovely translucent pink in color.
I had no trouble finding a sushi restaurant that carried both of these local specialties on the menu. This place happened to be a conveyor-belt sushi shop, where you can either grab plates of appealing items off the conveyor belt as they pass, or write down your order on a provided slip and hand it to a staff member.
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The colors of the plates indicate the price. A helpful guide in English explains the system.
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The boiled firefly squid were deliciously tender, and prepared with a tangy sauce of white miso and vinegar that brings out the flavor.
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The glass shrimp were uncooked, and came with a dollop of grated ginger that accented the delicate sweetness of the shrimp. The sushi was also wrapped in a soft sheet of thinly shaved kombu (giant kelp) instead of the tougher black nori that's usually used for this kind of sushi. Exquisite!
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Curry udon is a noodle dish that Toyama is known for.
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At most places that offer it, the roux is thick and rich, but not overly spicy. If you want more kick, look for a container of red-pepper flakes at your table. At this place, the container was shaped like a little gourd.
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Toyama and other prefectures along the Japan Sea coast are also known for their sake. The varieties found here tend to be light and crisp – not as heavy and sweet as kinds from some other parts of Japan. I happened to find a shop a couple blocks from Toyama Station that sold small-portion samples of its offerings, so you can try them before buying a full bottle.
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Thanks to this system, I discovered a few novel new sakes to take back home!
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I also took a streetcar to the neighboring city of Imizu to visit Bridge Bar, a new bar-restaurant whose Western-born proprietor and Japanese staff make a point of serving regional sakes and food dishes made using local ingredients.
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One new (to me) offering I got to try was kuro-zukuri. It resembles shiokara – a salt-cured and fermented preparation of squid flesh and entrails – but also includes the squid's ink, giving it a jet-black color. It paired splendidly with a local sake called Tateyama.
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Back in Toyama City, I dropped by a place that specializes in boxed masuzushi – a regional variety of pressed sushi made using pink trout – to pick up some to enjoy later.
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Back in my room, I unwrapped the big disk of fish and rice, and used the knife that came with it to cut the sushi into manageable wedges.
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They didn't last long!
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I thoroughly enjoyed this excursion to Toyama, and hope to come back again soon to try more of the tasty regional treats the prefecture is known for!
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Discover Central Japan ~みつけたび中部~
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- 1-45 Honmaru, Toyama City, Toyama
- 9:00 a.m.- 6:30 p.m. (Closed period:Year-end & New Year holidays)
- 076-439-0800
- http://www.toyamashi-kankoukyoukai.jp/en/information/