Kanazawa is your quintessential city by the sea with its fresh seafood, lively fish market, and an abundance of quaint family owned restaurants and shops for intrepid travelers to peruse through.

The city itself is located on the northern part of central Japan and serves as the capital of Ishikawa Prefecture. Much of its businesses and coastal charm come from the Sea of Japan which borders the city on the east. Part of Kanazawa’s claim to fame today lies in its incorporation of elegant design and uniquely significant elements of the region. There’s a large and rather breathtakingly beautiful central station that serves as the hub to and from other parts of the country.

Lucky for many of us traveling by railway, most of the best attractions whether shopping, eating, or just enjoying a stroll along one of the many preserved Edo Period-style districts and temples is just a short walk or bus ride away.

So for this trip, I’m hopping on a train from Nagoya Station to enjoy an afternoon at the unique historical district of Higashi-Chaya Gai.

This part of town is known for its tea houses or “cha-ya”. Chayas had a very distinct function back in the Edo Period when patrons would go there to be entertained by geishas just as much and if not more than for the tea. Kanazawa maintains three chaya districts but Higashi Chaya Gai remains the biggest and most attractive destination with many shops open to the public and some even turned into museums.

Another unique trademark of this area is the decadent gold leaf some restaurants like to decorate their sweet or savory dishes with. Don’t care for whipped cream or cherries, well you can even order an ice cream cone with a generous sheet of edible gold leaf right on top. And as good as any takoyaki stand is in Osaka, you can only find this luxurious take on one of Japan’s most popular and beloved street foods here at Higashi-chaya!

Kanazawa isn’t just known for its colorful take on food, but this part of the Ishikawa prefecture is renowned for many fine arts and crafts. Goldsmithing and the creation of jewelry are of course one of the city’s specialties, but applications of this shiny element do not stop at the boutique. The gold leaf produced from this area is used all over the country for art, cosmetics, and even restoration. A lot of Japan’s most revered landmarks from Kyoto to Tokyo depend on the expertise of Kanazawan artisans to keep these sacred places looking as traditional as possible.

Shops such as Hakuza showcase the magnificence and versatility of gold products as well as their unique marriage with other regional crafts like lacquer and porcelain.

Gold isn’t the only staple in Higashi-chaya Gai however. As mentioned before, this is one of Kanazawa’s tea districts. You’ll find a healthy selection of charming tea shops and restaurants to help you get through a long day of shopping and seeing the sights. Many of these tea houses offer both sitting or retail options if you’re mostly interested in taking a peek at the assortment of souvenirs you can choose from.

Ochazuke is a popular gift to grab someone if you’re coming through Higashi-chaya. It’s essentially a soluble shell encasing a mostly savory blend of dried fish, herbs, and/or vegetables that is made to accompany a hot broth. Often tea-based, it’s another prime example of the thoughtfulness you’ll soon notice that many of these shops have with the materials and ingredients available that make this part of Japan so special.

Of course you’re also welcome to sit down and wind down at one of the many traditional or western inspired tea houses. There’s always an array of hot and cold desserts or refreshments you can choose from—many of which come in sets. It was a bit of a wet and cold day so I chose a rejuvenating combination of hot matcha and the house specialty daifuku!