There are a total of 69 stations located along the ancient Nakasendo route and Magome-Juku is the next waypoint from Tsumago-Juku toward Kyoto.
Much like the other stations along the “Central Mountain Route”, Magome-Juku can be accessed via public transportation.

If you’re coming strictly from the JR Line, the quickest way to get to Magome-Juku is to get off of the Nakatsugawa Station on the JR Chuo Line and take a local bus.

The most convenient way to travel to Magome however is by going through Meitetsu World Travel and booking a Round-Trip bus for ¥2,200 JPY (¥1,800 kids). There are daily departures but make sure to book your ride by 12:00PM at least three days before your travel date. (http://www.mwt.co.jp/web-inbound/mitsuketabi/magome/）

The hike from Tsumago-Juku is just over 8 kilometers downhill through the green mountains of central Japan and should take between two and a half to about three hours long with breathtaking sceneries throughout.

Magome-Juku has a main alley with a slope that offers travelers plenty opportunity to gaze upon the Gifu mountains to the west. Along this portion of the Nakasendo route you’ll be able to enjoy many shops and restaurants at your leisure, but make sure to pace yourself!

The Toson Memorial Museum offers a wide variety of cultural and historic information about Magome-Juku and this part of the Nakasendo route. Much like the town, the museum is an intricately preserved glimpse into the past with displays from the Tokugawa period.

It can be hard to choose between all of the tasty looking treats that line the streets of Magome-Juku. This store offers an assortment of “dango” or “mochi” choices that have a distinctive sweet yet satisfyingly savory taste. Luckily these rice-based dumplings are quite affordable and sharable just in case you and your companions can’t decide on what to get.

The street running along the center of the town is considerably narrower than that of Tsumago-Juku and has a higher density of shops and inns to stay rest if you decide to book a night. It’s about a twenty minute walk from one end to the other but much like this tour, it’s much more enjoyable to take your time!

Looking in the southwestern direction of the path you’ll be greeted with a surreal view and sense of magnitude of the Kiso Valley and the mountains of central Japan.

The mountains to the east can be seen by taking just a short detour between the shops along the Nakasendo. The central Japanese mountains are known for their lush green and navigable geography and it becomes clear why this path has been frequented by so many throughout the generations.

Right around sunset, the shops that line the narrow streets turn on their lanterns and inn-keepers start preparing the dinner meals for their guests. Even though most establishments close up shop around dusk, the ancient road takes on a different character as if you’ve seemingly traveled through time as the sun sets and the crowds fade away.

If you’re not staying the night and came to Magome-Juku by way of the train or bus to Nakatsugawa, it’s important to keep in mind the last local bus out in order to make it back.

Final Thoughts

This is a country so well recognized by its fashionable metropolises and colorful tourist attractions, but it’s also a place that’s very much steeped in thousands of years of rich culture and history. While destinations like these might not be as accessible as the major cities connected by the bullet train, they’re at the same time never really that far away and I highly recommend experiencing this side of Japan in its purity.

By Donald Paul Whigan